Confession: I Haven’t Really Surfed in Five Years… and I’m Terrified to Try Again- Second Swell, Same Soul Episode #2
- Erin Spineto

- Jan 19
- 2 min read
It’s confession time.
And I am so not ready.
But I promised I would…
So…
I have only surfed twice in the last five years.
And I found out only after getting into the lineup two years ago, that surfing is NOT like riding a bike.
Especially when mold toxicity has destroyed your body and lungs.
After processing the pain of that revelation for the past two years, and spending those two years trying to rebuild a base level of health, I am finally ready to get back into the lineup. As a total kook. Who can’t even stand up anymore.
I am going to tackle the fear that comes with being held down by a tiny three-foot wave until I nearly ran out of breath (that happens when you have a seven-second breath hold while sitting still), and the embarrassment of not being able to pop up on my board after nearly forty years of surfing.
I am hoping that my skills of reading the ocean and waves, and my years of mind strengthening through endurance expeditions will pull me through. But I’m not entirely sure I can actually do this.
And I’m just dumb enough to do it publicly.
If you’ve ever had to restart something you used to be good at—come fail with me.
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