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Confession: I Haven’t Really Surfed in Five Years… and I’m Terrified to Try Again- Second Swell, Same Soul Episode #2

  • Writer: Erin Spineto
    Erin Spineto
  • Jan 19
  • 2 min read

It’s confession time. 


And I am so not ready.


But I promised I would…


So…


I have only surfed twice in the last five years.


And I found out only after getting into the lineup two years ago, that surfing is NOT like riding a bike. 


Especially when mold toxicity has destroyed your body and lungs.


After processing the pain of that revelation for the past two years, and spending those two years trying to rebuild a base level of health, I am finally ready to get back into the lineup. As a total kook. Who can’t even stand up anymore.


I am going to tackle the fear that comes with being held down by a tiny three-foot wave until I nearly ran out of breath (that happens when you have a seven-second breath hold while sitting still), and the embarrassment of not being able to pop up on my board after nearly forty years of surfing.


I am hoping that my skills of reading the ocean and waves, and my years of mind strengthening through endurance expeditions will pull me through. But I’m not entirely sure I can actually do this. 


And I’m just dumb enough to do it publicly. 

  

If you’ve ever had to restart something you used to be good at—come fail with me. 



If you enjoyed this peek behind the curtain, imagine getting these salty-sweet stories—playlist reveals, writing confessions, beachy escapism, laugh-out-loud moments, and all the heart-tugging Warrior Women vibes—delivered straight to your inbox every week. 🌊💕


Join the Salties Scoop (my fun, no-spam newsletter) and ride the wave with me:


It’s free, it’s feel-good, and it’s where the real magic happens. Can’t wait to see you there! 🏖️📖✨



 
 
 

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